trattoria tosca

“Venus or Serena?”

With all the hullabaloo surrounding its younger sister, Trattoria Tosca, it’s easy to overlook Café Levain. But trust me, you’ll be sorry if you do. It would be sort of like ignoring Venus to concentrate on Serena.

Here’s what you’d be missing:

Free wine. Good Lord! Fill out a form with your name and e-mail address and you’ll not only be the first to receive word of wine tastings and other special events – you’ll also get a coupon for a free glass of red or white wine on your next visit. And believe me, if you visit once, you’ll return.

Sunday suppers. On Sundays, there’s a three-course prix-fixe menu for $25. Three courses…25 bucks. If you prefer a vegetarian menu, knock five bucks off the price. A wine pairing is optional, so you can be adventurous and wing it or ask your server and get a good recommendation on by-the-glass or bottle selections. Don’t forget: Sundays, three courses, $25… you can hardly eat at home for that. And if you eat at Levain, you don’t have to do the dishes.

Seasonal ingredients. Fall arrived with summer-like temperatures – which quickly curtailed into the Minnesota fall weather we’re used to – but chef Remle Colestock is already altering Levain’s menu to recognize the changing season.

First up is an appetizer (Levain calls them starters): a pork rillette with an apple gastrique that is lip-smackingly good. Coming soon, if not already there, are a chicken liver paté and Poutine, Colestock’s take on the artery-clogging Fois Gras Poutine at Martin Picard’s restaurant, Au Pied de Cochon, in Montreal. Colestock dispenses with the fois gras to keep the dish affordable but the cheese curds, French fries and demi-glace are still there.

Parisian Gnocchi. Now, this ought to be a dish-for-all-seasons. Here’s what my wife said after her first bite: “Oh my!” and five minutes later, “Delicious!” It’s unlike other gnocchi you may have had, sautéed to a golden brown, crispy on the outside, and meltingly tender inside. Colestock credits another great chef, Thomas Keller, for the inspiration for this dish.

Although it changes fairly frequently, Levain’s current menu is always posted on the restaurant’s website. And because I’m sure your mouth is now watering, here’s the phone number to call for reservations: 612.823.7111.